Living the Simple Life at the Sanderling

On the Outer Banks, a land of water and wind, sea and sand, the perfect vacation should be simple. Miles of beach to walk with only the gulls for company. Telescopes looking out to sea. Broad decks leading down to the water. Snug shutters to keep out the chill. Misty sunrises. Lingering sunsets.

Just these qualities make the Sanderling Resort, Spa and Conference Center one of the most popular getaways in the world.

Like the beach bird it's named for, the Sanderling keeps a low profile among the dunes of the Outer Banks. The three-story hotel, covered in weathered grey shingles, is no high rise. Rather it evokes the spirit of the Banks' legendary beach cottages famous for their "shabby" elegance.

Wide porches and decks, rocking chairs and a cozy reading room make the Sanderling the beach retreat everyone dreams of.

But if the exterior recalls the "unpainted aristocracy" of the Banks, the interior offers every convenience. A recent $4 million renovation equipped rooms with pillow-top king-size beds, walk-in showers and 32-inch, flat screen TVs. Every room has a large private porch furnished with rocking chairs, a chenille throw and a view.

The Outer Banks are narrow here, and guests who don't have a view of the ocean from their porch are guaranteed a view of Currituck Sound. You can check your email out there if you like. Free wireless internet access now stretches throughout the property.

When you get hungry, no need to drive. Two excellent restaurants, each with its unique atmosphere, are just across the parking lot.

The Lifesaving Station Restaurant (above) occupies the renovated 1899 Caffey's Inlet Station, one of 29 outposts that once rescued seamen along this coast. The paneled interior, beautifully restored, is studded with maritime memorabilia, historic objects, bird decoys and culinary awards.

[See our story on Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station for more on this historic chapter of Banks' history.]

Menus vary with the season, but the Sanderling's signature chowder, a creamy blend of shrimp, crab and corn, is available year-round.

Across the street, the Left Bank (above) offers a different atmosphere entirely. Here an elegant dining room overlooks the marshes of the sound. In the exhibition kitchen, the Left Bank chefs let their imaginations soar, creating three-, seven-, even 12-course tasting menus. Wine selections from the resort's extensive cellar accompany each course.

Reservations are a must for this dining experience, but if your appetite isn't up to the challenge, stop at the Left Bank's blond onyx bar for a sunset cocktail. The sun puts on a colorful lightshow daily as it sinks over the marsh.

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Among the treasures is the largest collection of Grainger McKoy sculpture in private hands. His wood and bronze birds, often caught in mid-flight, soar through the resort's lobbies.

The Sanderling also displays a complete collection of the "Birds of North America" Royal Worchester series created by the renowned Dorothy Doughty. More than two dozen of the life-like ceramic birds nest in display cases throughout the Left Bank restaurant.

Doughty's sculpture of the extinct Carolina parakeet is a highlight of the Sanderling Conference Center. Occupying its own building in the heart of the resort, the center's fully equipped Swan and Heron meeting rooms open onto an oceanside deck and can accommodate groups of up to 150 people. Upstairs, the spacious private suite is a popular location for executive powwows and intimate honeymoons.

Despite the priceless display of artwork, the Sanderling maintains a casual charm. You won't feel odd wandering barefoot down the hall to get your morning coffee or to visit one of the several Jacuzzis scattered around the grounds.

On the resort's sound-side, indoor and outdoor pools flank a full-service spa. In keeping with its lifesaving location, the Sanderling Spa features treatments aimed at rescue and recovery. Many incorporate oil of the Russian olive, a local aromatic shrub.

Bordering the resort's northern edge, Pine Island Audubon Sanctuary's thousands of unspoiled acres attract hikers, kayakers and many species of migrating birds.

Birdwatchers are naturally attracted to the Sanderling, but the area has something to offer for a variety of interests. Guests can enjoy the facilities at the Pine Island Racquet Club and Fitness Center, a few miles up the road, or play the Rees Jones course at the Currituck Club, one of Golf Digest's "Top 10 You Can Play."

Duck, a village just south of the Sanderling, boasts some of the most interesting shopping on the Outer Banks. Boardwalks join eclectic emporiums built under the town's many live oaks and along the waterfront.

A short drive north of the resort lies Historic Corolla, where the Currituck Light (above), one of the few working lighthouses open to climbers, still stands guard. At its feet, the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife offers exhibits and educational programs tailored to nature lovers and the magnificent Whalehead Club (below) recreates life of an earlier era in a luxurious hunting lodge.

Corolla is also the place to embark on an off-road adventure to the restricted north beaches where the area's famous wild ponies roam. Outfitters offer a variety of transportation for these trips, from Hummers to Segways.

With so many attractions and amenities joined to its outstanding location, it's easy to see why the world's travelers hold the Sanderling in such high regard. The property makes regular appearances on Travel + Leisure's list of Top 500 Resorts. Wine Spectator and Santé magazines have applauded the Sanderling's restaurants and wine cellar. Conde Nast Traveler readers are especially fond of the Sanderling. They recently voted the resort among the top 25 in the nation. A new jet service makes the Sanderling even more accessible to travelers. Sea Air charter flights ferry guests directly to the resort from Norfolk, the nearest international airport. Like the birds that make this their winter home, you can now arrive by air.

Originally published in North Carolina Magazine, 2007.