Beaufort, NC

Beaufort, the third oldest town in North Carolina, basks in a laid back vibe.

Once a busy fishing port, today its main commercial activity is tourism, but there's nothing "touristy" about this town. Instead, visitors are welcomed to elegant bed and breakfast inns, and dine on inspired cuisine created by talented chefs.

The town's past is lovingly displayed and explained by the ladies of the town at the Beaufort Historic Site, while the menfolk take visitors out to fish in the rich surrounding waters.

The area has a compact collection of all the attractions that are elsewhere spread up and down the Carolina coast.

There's Civil War-era Fort Macon, just across the harbor, with one of the best beaches in the state out front.

Cape Lookout Lighthouse, painted in a distinctive diamond pattern, lies a short boat ride away.

Watersports, from scuba diving to parasailing to kayaking, are readily available and some of the best anywhere.

Beaufort has not one, but two herds of wild ponies-always a popular draw for tourists. One group, proved by DNA to descend from Spanish stock, occupies Shackleford Banks, part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore. Another herd can be seen grazing on Carrot Island, just across the channel from the town docks.

Visitors can catch a water taxi to either island, or out to the lighthouse, from the Beaufort waterfront.

In town action centers on Front Street across from the wharf, where you'll see yachts from around the world. Nearly all of Beaufort's accommodations, dining options and historic attractions are located here or just a few blocks away, making Beaufort one of the great walking destinations in North Carolina.

Guests at Front Street establishments such as the Inlet Inn can sit on their balconies, sip wine and watch the world go by.

Founded in 1709, Beaufort by the Sea, as it was originally called, was named for the same Duke of Beaufort as that other Beaufort, a state to the south. However, locals point out, the North Carolina town uses the correct French pronunciation: "BO-furt" with a long "o."

The Beaufort Historic Site, offering tours of six buildings and the Old Burying Ground, is operated by a non-profit volunteer association without the aid of public funds. However, the state has recognized the area's significance, both as a historic treasure and a vacation destination.

The main branch of the N.C. Maritime Museum displaying artifacts recovered from Blackbeard's flagship sits along Front Street. A few bridges away, a newly expanded branch of the N.C. Aquarium takes visitors on a voyage through state waters from the smallest mountain stream to the deep offshore lairs of the big gamefish.

Special events are held in the area all year, from the Carolina Chocolate Festival every February, to the Pirate Invasion in August, to the North Carolina Seafood Festival every fall.

But perhaps the event that best expresses the personality of Beaufort is the annual Wine and Food Weekend scheduled every April. The festival pairs wines from around the world with cuisine created by some of the best local and regional chefs in a series of winemaker dinners and other events including a fashion show, an art show and book signing, a wine and cheese pairing seminar and receptions at some of the seaport's private historic homes.

Special events include a Friday night gala and wine auction, Saturday's casual Beer, Bubbles and BBQ, and a final Sunday Champagne Brunch.

Dave DuBuisson, innkeeper at the Pecan Tree Inn, a charming bed and breakfast located in the heart of the town's historic district, recommends Saturday's big event: the Vin de Mer Grand Tasting and Culinary Village, the largest tented wine event in the state.

"The wineries and distributors all set up tables," says DuBuisson. "You can wander around and sample wines, or try tastes of food from the area's best restaurants."

Most years, the festival pitches its tent at the Maritime Museum's Gallant's Channel site, where you're likely to see a pirate ship tied up at the dock.

Proceeds from the weekend benefit the Beaufort Historic Site, the Friends of the N.C. Maritime Museum, and the Culinary School at Carteret Community College in Morehead City just over the bridge.

Larry Jones, innkeeper at the Inlet Inn, especially enjoys the winemaker dinners. "You get some really nice food," he says. "A lot of our guests come to Beaufort mainly to eat. They can park their cars for the weekend and see the town on foot."

For more information, visit www.beaufortwineandfood.com and www.crystalcoastnc.org.

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Originally published in NC Magazine

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